{"id":1405,"date":"2020-09-30T17:01:00","date_gmt":"2020-09-30T17:01:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/nova.rutesentrerefugis.com\/?p=1405"},"modified":"2024-04-25T10:47:21","modified_gmt":"2024-04-25T10:47:21","slug":"fitz-roy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/rutesentrerefugis.com\/index.php\/2020\/09\/30\/fitz-roy\/","title":{"rendered":"FITZ ROY"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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FITZ ROY<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Columna escrita per JOKIN AZKETA<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Fa mil anys, la primera vegada que vaig arribar a EL CHALT\u00c9N, el poble era encara poc m\u00e9s que unes quantes cases, que sobresortien escampades entre el reble, i la immensitat d’herba calcinada que s’estenia fins on arribava la vista. Els carrers, urbanitzats per\u00f2 sense ocupar, esperaven polsosos als seus habitants per\u00f2 sense distreure la vista de les muntanyes que tanquen completament l’horitz\u00f3 per l’oest, unes enormes moles que impressionen profundament pels seus murs de granit i que treuen l’al\u00e8 per la seva bellesa.<\/br>\n<\/br>\nCrec que el que m\u00e9s recordo d’aquella primera visita, van ser els fongs de neu gelada que rematen els cims de moltes d’elles i que, sota els raigs de sol, brillen com si fossin diamants. Diuen els que entenen d’aix\u00f2 de l’alpinisme que, perduda per sempre la m\u00e0gia dels \u00abvuit mils\u00bb, -allunyats aquests de la import\u00e0ncia que van tenir per a la hist\u00f2ria de l’exploraci\u00f3 i el descobriment- i tristament abandonats a merc\u00e8 d’embulls comercials, \u00e9s a les muntanyes m\u00e9s baixes i remotes -o en les grans parets llises de gran dificultat- on es juga la veritable gran partida d’aquest esport i on ara es mesuren el comprom\u00eds, l’\u00e8tica, l’estil i el valor.\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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El mar\u00e7 de 2019, un californi\u00e0 de 25 anys, JIM REYNOLDS<\/font>, va escalar en nom\u00e9s integral els 1.500 metres de la via AFANASSIEF, fins a col\u00b7locar els seus peus sobre la cimera del FITZ ROY<\/font>. Per\u00f2, el que fa m\u00e9s singular -m\u00e9s irrepetible tal vegada- i per descomptat m\u00e9s memorable la gesta, \u00e9s que destrepar o desescalar -dos verbs que no existeixen- pel mateix itinerari pel qual havia ascendit i sense ajuda de la corda, guiant-se de vegades per les taques de magnesi i havent de buscar-les quan va fosquejar, amb l’ajuda de la llum frontal …<\/br>\n<\/br>\nPenso en MAGNONE<\/font> i en TERRAY<\/font> que van escalar aquesta muntanya per primera vegada a l’any 52. Segons van explicar, van patir vents de fins a 200 quil\u00f2metres hora que en aquesta part de m\u00f3n no s\u00f3n estranys i que pugnaven per arrencar-los de la paret. \u00c9s aquesta una muntanya que sens dubte construeix mites i pot ser que herois i m’agradaria veure les cares de sorpresa d’aquells pioners, davant el canvi dels temps, l’evoluci\u00f3 de les metes alpin\u00edstiques i la mentalitat per assolir-… REYNOLDS<\/font>, va declarar a un diari argent\u00ed:<\/br>\n<\/br>\n\u00abEscalar en solitari \u00e9s la meva manera d’expressar-me i d’estar en relaci\u00f3 total amb la natura. Les d’EL CHALT\u00c9N s\u00f3n les muntanyes m\u00e9s boniques que vaig veure en la meva vida (segurament l’adjectiu boniques va sortir de la boca del traductor argent\u00ed) La situaci\u00f3 d’estar sol a la muntanya \u00e9s d’una bellesa extrema …<\/em>\u00bb.<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Detall de la escalada de Jim Reynolds. Foto \/ Tad MacCrea. Font: Rolando Garibotti (Publicat a Wogu. Cultura de Escalada)<\/br>Lionel Terray i Guido Magnone al Fitz Roy l'any 1952 (Publicat a Chalt\u00e9n Hoy)<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Per la meva banda, penso que sens dubte tornar\u00e9 a aquesta cantonada del m\u00f3n que adoro. Sempre m’agrada imaginar el lloc en ple hivern, cobert per una capa de neu constantment assotada pel vent, fins a esdevenir gel lluent, en una placa d’extraordinaria brillantor a la qual \u00e9s impossible mirar sense aclucar els ulls -de tanta llum- en dies de sol i cel net.<\/br>\n<\/br>\nSeria un somni passar all\u00e0 uns quants mesos i escriure la hist\u00f2ria d’un altre nord-americ\u00e0 que arriba volent repetir la gesta de REYNOLDS<\/font>, per\u00f2 durant la seva estada succeeixen coses estranyes, tant, que enrareixen l’aire que tots respiren.<\/br>\n<\/br>\nNo s\u00e9 si arribar\u00e9 a fer-ho, aquesta hist\u00f2ria imaginada fa temps que em ronda pel cap … Tant de bo pogu\u00e9s instal\u00b7lar-me a EL CHALT\u00c9N durant un temps llarg de dies curts i freds, sota la volta del cel que el mateix pot fer que em senti fora de perill, com irremeiablement sol i exposat a tot …<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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JOKIN AZKETA<\/h4>\n

Jokin Azketa \u00e9s un dels socis fundadors de MUGA (Pamplona) que va obrir les portes l’any 1986 i que continua sent lloc de trobada imprescindible entre viatgers i muntanyencs. L’any 2012 va publicar la seva primera novel\u00b7la \u00abDONDE VIVEN LOS DIOSES MENORES\u00bb en la qual va desenvolupar una trama intensa al voltant d’una travessia hivernal dels Pirineus. A l’any seg\u00fcent, va guanyar el Premi Desnivel de literatura de muntanya amb \u00abLO QUE LA NIEVE ESCONDE\u00bb en qu\u00e8 una expedici\u00f3 al Kedarnath Dome a l’Him\u00e0laia indi servia com a tel\u00f3 de fons per a la intriga i per donar curs a uns personatges de passat fosc. Aquest mateix any 2013, va participar al costat d’altres autors, en el llibre \u00abINQUIETOS VASCONES\u00bb que recollia diferents relats i experi\u00e8ncies viatgeres i que va ser editat tamb\u00e9 per Desnivel amb finalitats ben\u00e8fiques. Forma part del blog \u00abLA L\u00cdNEA DEL HORIZONTE\u00bb i dedica gran part del seu temps a viatjar, rec\u00f3rrer massissos muntanyosos i a escriure sobre ells per diferents mitjans sempre sota diferents pseud\u00f2nims. \u00abEL TIEMPO DEL VAC\u00cdO\u00bb \u00e9s la seva tercera novel\u00b7la i sembla consolidar-lo definitivament en el panorama de la literatura de muntanya com un autor interessat tant en la tensi\u00f3 psicol\u00f2gica com en la bellesa del medi natural.<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Per si vols compartir aquesta columna<\/u><\/font><\/h5>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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ARTICLES PUBLICATS PER L'AUTOR<\/u><\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tUN M\u00d3N GELAT\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tLA VIDA EN LA PUNTA DE LOS DEDOS\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t
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\"Annapurna\"<\/div>\n\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tANNAPURNA … (l’altra veritat)\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t
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\"Fitz<\/div>\n\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t
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\"El<\/div>\n\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tEL TIEMPO DEL VAC\u00cdO\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t
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<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

FITZ ROY Columna escrita per JOKIN AZKETA Fa mil anys, la primera vegada que vaig arribar a EL CHALT\u00c9N, el poble era encara poc m\u00e9s<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":1430,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"elementor_header_footer","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[5124,6208],"tags":[5234,5236,6458,6460,6462,6464,6222,6466],"class_list":["post-1405","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog","category-jokin-azketa-ca","tag-columnas-ca","tag-columnes-ca","tag-el-chalten-es-ca","tag-fitz-roy-es-ca","tag-guido-magnone-es-ca","tag-jim-reynolds-es-ca","tag-jokin-azketa-es-ca","tag-lionel-terray-es-ca"],"yoast_head":"\nFITZ ROY - Rutes Entre Refugis<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/rutesentrerefugis.com\/index.php\/2020\/09\/30\/fitz-roy\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"es_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"FITZ ROY - 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