{"id":17989,"date":"2023-06-20T06:40:16","date_gmt":"2023-06-20T06:40:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/rutesentrerefugis.com\/?p=17989"},"modified":"2024-09-04T15:46:09","modified_gmt":"2024-09-04T15:46:09","slug":"nepal-1982","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/rutesentrerefugis.com\/index.php\/2023\/06\/20\/nepal-1982\/","title":{"rendered":"NEPAL 1982"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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NEPAL 1982<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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PER LES VALLS DEL KHUMBU I DE KATMAND\u00da<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Pr\u00f2leg escrit per l’ALBERT PADROL del llibre ‘NEPAL 1982’ de JAUME BALANY\u00c0
Fotografies: JAUME BALANY\u00c0<\/h6>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\"I els somnis m\u00e9s extravagants de Kew (*) s\u00f3n realitat a Katmand\u00fa.\"\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tEscriv\u00eda el Nobel Rudyard Kipling el 1892<\/cite>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/blockquote>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Per a molts de nosaltres tamb\u00e9, el Nepal era un territori m\u00edtic i desconegut, descrit per imatges de Tintin al Tibet, alguna fotografia del National Geographic i la Geografia Universal que ten\u00edem a casa. Aquest Nepal remot i herm\u00e8tic acollia perfectament els nostres anhels viatgers.

Nepal va ser un regne eremita fins a comen\u00e7aments dels anys 50 del passat segle, quan buscant modernitzaci\u00f3 i superviv\u00e8ncia pol\u00edtica es va obrir a viatgers estrangers, a muntanyers, a negociants i als inevitables aventurers a la recerca de shangri-las.
L\u2019escriptor Michel Peissel descriu a \u201cTiger for Breakfast<\/em>\u201d l\u2019ambient estranyament cosmopolita d\u2019aquells anys a Katmandu, quan personatges com l\u2019exballar\u00ed Boris Lisanevitch o el coronel Jimmy Roberts posaven les primeres pedres a la ind\u00fastria hotelera i del trekking al pa\u00eds, obrint l\u2019Hotel Royal i l\u2019ag\u00e8ncia Mountain Travel Nepal, respectivament.
El mateix Peissel remuntant a peu el congost del riu Kali Gandaki, arribaria pocs anys m\u00e9s tard al Mustang, el seu \u201creialme perdut a l\u2019Him\u00e0laia\u201d, repetint en part l\u2019itinerari de l\u2019expedici\u00f3 de Herzog, Terray, Lachenal i el seu nombr\u00f3s equip, cam\u00ed de l\u2019Annapurna, el primer dels 8000 escalats.

De l\u2019abundosa producci\u00f3 liter\u00e0ria sobre el Nepal, els relats de Herzog i Peissel resultent avui especialment emotius, com a testimonis d\u2019uns temps anteriors a internet, gps o drons.
Anteriors tamb\u00e9 a cartografies fiables, perqu\u00e8 no va ser fins als anys 50 que el ge\u00f2leg su\u00efs Toni Hagen comen\u00e7\u00e0 a rec\u00f3rrer el pa\u00eds a peu, per enc\u00e0rrec del govern nepal\u00e8s, per establir-ne les bases.

Mentre, a Occident i molt especialment al Regne Unit, el moviment hippy, entre n\u00favols, gur\u00fas, m\u00fasica de sitar i policromes est\u00e8tiques orientalitzants, veia el Nepal com un ideal de feli\u00e7 espiritualitat. Una atraient alternativa a l\u2019ordenada vida burgesa que proposava una economia cada cop m\u00e9s allunyada de la postguerra.
Era ell lloc on calia anar, sense excuses!
El viatge es feia per terra, i va ser l\u2019aventura inici\u00e0tica de molts joves europeus.
Arribats de l\u2019India del nord, sobre poblada i conflictiva, inc\u00f2moda tamb\u00e9, el Nepal resultava amable i tranquil.
El Katmand\u00fa d\u2019aquells anys, els de venda lliure de c\u00e0nnabis i hash cakes a Freak Street, disposava de poca electricitat i quasi cap clavegueram. De nit, les fines i eterees joves hippis circulaven quasi a les fosques, entre vaques i alguna cabra ajagudes, cremant barretes d\u2019encens sota el nas, per v\u00e8ncer la fortor.
Als temples a la llum de torxes, es cantaven fins tard himnes amb acompanyament d\u2019harm\u00f2nium primitiu i tabla.
Al mat\u00ed, molt d\u2019hora, despertes ja vaques i cabres, no aix\u00ed les eterees joves i els seus companys, dones tibetanes venien pel carrer te salat amb mantega que servien de grans termos de fusta.

\u00c9s el Katmand\u00fa d\u2019aquest llibre, que pocs anys m\u00e9s tard fotografia en Jaume Balany\u00e0 en magn\u00edfic blanc i negre.
Un Katmand\u00fa ser\u00e8 i amable, de dones i nens que miren directament al fot\u00f2graf sense desconfian\u00e7a ni neguit. I que tot i la seva mod\u00e8stia evident rarament pidolen almoines o caramels. La pobresa de bona part de la gent resulta \u00f2bvia, com tamb\u00e9 la seva dignitat.
En Jaume sap molt b\u00e9 com fotografiar persones amb respecte, ho ha fet sempre, esperant la mirada que autoritza la foto i construint aix\u00ed un recorregut hum\u00e0 pels carrers i temples de la ciutat.

El Katmand\u00fa que documenta aquest llibre no tornar\u00e0. El Nepal te el turisme convencional i de muntanya com font d\u2019ingressos fonamentals i barris com Thamel estan saturats d\u2019hostals i de comer\u00e7os.
La poblaci\u00f3 ha augmentat espectacularment, i la ciutat est\u00e0 tan congestionada com les de l\u2019India. Han canviat moltes coses, com l\u2019acc\u00e9s al conjunt monumental de Durbar, que necessita adquirir entrada. O el mercat de verdures proper que ha passat a ser un seguit de paradetes que venen records…
I en fa molts, molt\u00edssims anys ja, que no es ven c\u00e0nnabis lliurement.

L\u2019estiu, de juny a agost, \u00e9s temps de grans precipitacions al Nepal: \u00e9s el mons\u00f3…
Cada dia n\u00favols foscos i pesants deixen caure quantitats prodigioses de pluja. La vall de Katmand\u00fa queda anegada, els camins de les muntanyes totalment impracticables i els cims ocults per boires espesses.
M\u00e9s tard, al setembre i encara millor a l\u2019octubre el paisatge desvela el gran Him\u00e0laia.
Des de Nagarkot, a l\u2019est de la vall, la visi\u00f3 dels cims del Ganesh Himal, el Lantang Himal i d\u2019altres resulta aclaparadora.
Molt m\u00e9s a l\u2019est, al fons del panorama… l\u2019Everest! El Pa\u00eds Xerpa, el Khumbu, que l\u2019elegant blanc i negre de les imatges d\u2019aquest llibre ens permet rec\u00f3rrer.

En Jaume i els seus companys hi arriben en un dels petits aparells que serveixen el vertigin\u00f3s aer\u00f2drom de Lukla. Una pista molt perillosa constru\u00efda sota els auspicis d\u2019Edmund Hillary, que la considerava fonamental per treure el pa\u00eds xerpa del seu a\u00efllament.
All\u00e0, un cop aclimatats, accedeixen al Kala Patthar acompanyats per Pasang, el seu amic xerpa. Des dels 5.643 metres de l\u2019excepcional mirador les vistes de l\u2019Everest, el Nupse i el Lhotse treuen l\u2019al\u00e8, com l\u2019al\u00e7ada.
A la volta a Namche Bazar, enlluernats per la visi\u00f3 dels cims resplendents celebren alegrement l’\u00e8xit del viatge: amb thukpa (llargs fideus amb verdures i ou), alu ko roti (pa sense llevat) i txang (t\u00e8rbola beguda fermentada d\u2019arr\u00f2s).

Al contrari que la ciutat, les muntanyes no han canviat quasi, o pot ser una mica pel canvi clim\u00e0tic, per\u00f2 la manera d\u2019accedir-hi i escalar-les s\u00ed, com b\u00e9 explica l\u2019escrit d\u2019en Jaume.
Que voleu, prefereixo els temps de l\u2019exploraci\u00f3 i les primeres escalades, quan la possibilitat d\u2019expedicions comercials als 8.000 era inimaginable.
Els temps dels pioners de l\u2019himalaisme, com l\u2019Eric Shipton, en Bill Tilman i tants altres.
De muntanyers que respectaven que el cim del Machapuchare, a la regi\u00f3 dels Annapurnes, era sagrat i no havia de ser trepitjat per humans, i es quedaven a 150 metres del cim…
Alpinistes com l\u2019entranyable Herbert Tichy, primer a escalar el Cho-Oyu amb Joseph J\u00f6chler i Pasang Dawa, capa\u00e7os de fer de l\u2019expedici\u00f3 i del seu llarg i dur\u00edssim recorregut d\u2019aproximaci\u00f3 una celebraci\u00f3 de la vida i de la muntanya, com descriu a \u201cCho Oyu<\/em>\u201d, el seu relat de l\u2019ascensi\u00f3.


Nota:<\/b> En Jaume Balany\u00e0 \u00e9s un amic que ve de lluny, quasi de tan lluny com els meus primers viatges al Nepal.
Com el Nepal, en Jaume, excel\u00b7lent fot\u00f2graf i muntanyer forma part del meu paisatge sentimental.

(*<\/b><\/span>).- Barri de la localitat de Richmond upon Thames, al sud de Londres.<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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ALBERT PADROL<\/h4>

A casa, a Andorra, es fotografiava molt. El meu pare tenia un laboratori d’aficionat on procedia a llargu\u00edssimes sessions de revelat de les fotografies que feia. Va ser doncs molt natural que, acabats els estudis a l’escola francesa, decid\u00eds intentar viure de les meves fotos. Vaig comen\u00e7ar com a foto fixa al cinema, per\u00f2 el que realment m’interessava era viatjar i fotografiar el m\u00f3n. I aix\u00f2 vaig fer, i no va ser f\u00e0cil, despr\u00e9s de passar dos anys a l’ef\u00edmera escola de fotografia Richter Elisava, a Barcelona. Els anys han donat per fer algunes coses, com col\u00b7laborar regularment amb ag\u00e8ncies fotogr\u00e0fiques: AGE Fotostock o les desaparegudes Zardoya, Explorer i AFIP de Par\u00eds, o Picturepoint de Londres. Tamb\u00e9 publicar a revistes com Viajar, i moltes altres. Traduir al castell\u00e0 llibres de fotografia, o cofundar Alta\u00efr (la\/ les llibreries, la revista, l’edici\u00f3 de llibres…): una llarga aventura que m’ha perm\u00e8s viure quasi com havia imaginat.
I impartir durant uns anys el curs de Fotografia de Viatge a l’IEFC<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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NEPAL 1982 PER LES VALLS DEL KHUMBU I DE KATMAND\u00da Pr\u00f2leg escrit per l’ALBERT PADROL del llibre ‘NEPAL 1982’ de JAUME BALANY\u00c0 Fotografies: JAUME BALANY\u00c0 \u00abI els somnis m\u00e9s extravagants de Kew (*) s\u00f3n realitat a Katmand\u00fa.\u00bb Escriv\u00eda el Nobel Rudyard Kipling el 1892 Per a molts de nosaltres tamb\u00e9, el Nepal era un territori […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":56,"featured_media":17991,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"elementor_header_footer","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[5124,11418],"tags":[4717,4713,4707,6532,6534,4715,4711,4709,4721,4705,4703,4719],"class_list":["post-17989","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog","category-llibres","tag-albert-padrol","tag-cho-oyu","tag-everest","tag-himalaia-ca","tag-himalaya-ca","tag-jaume-balanya","tag-kala-pattar","tag-kali-gandaki","tag-katmandu","tag-khumbu","tag-nepal-1982","tag-thamel"],"yoast_head":"\nNEPAL 1982 - 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