{"id":7010,"date":"2020-02-23T11:46:00","date_gmt":"2020-02-23T11:46:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/nova.rutesentrerefugis.com\/?p=7010"},"modified":"2024-04-25T12:11:55","modified_gmt":"2024-04-25T12:11:55","slug":"pioneres","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/rutesentrerefugis.com\/index.php\/2020\/02\/23\/pioneres\/","title":{"rendered":"PIONERES"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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PIONERES<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Columna escrita per la PITI CAPELLA publicada a la revista SORORA n\u00famero 1<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Amb la punta del seu bast\u00f3, l\u2019HENRIETTE d\u2019ANGEVILLE<\/font> escriu a la neu gla\u00e7ada del cim del MONT BLANC: \u201cVouloir, c\u2019est pouvoir\u201d (Voler \u00e9s poder). Som al setembre del 1838 i aquesta arist\u00f2crata alpinista es converteix en la segona dona que arriba al cim. Trenta anys abans havia estat MARIE PARAD\u00cdS<\/font>, la primera. Per\u00f2, segons relats de l\u2019\u00e8poca, la MARIE<\/font> va ser m\u00e9s aviat conven\u00e7uda per fer el cim: d\u2019extracte humil, no tenia la mateixa motivaci\u00f3 ni anhel que l\u2019HENRIETTE<\/font>, una dona de formaci\u00f3 liberal i culta. La primera va ser pr\u00e0cticament arrossegada fins dalt, mentre que la segona sentia un fervent desig de pujar muntanyes i, especialment, l\u2019imponent MONT BLANC, el seu \u201camant gla\u00e7at\u201d. Despr\u00e9s d\u2019aquestes pioneres, en vingueren d\u2019altres en fer \u201cprimeres femenines\u201d.\u2028\u2028<\/br>\n<\/br>\nSer pioner en qualsevol \u00e0mbit hum\u00e0 implica una gran dosi de convicci\u00f3, determinaci\u00f3, coratge i atracci\u00f3 pels reptes. Si parlem de pioneres, no podem obviar que aquest repte \u00e9s doble: obrir cam\u00ed i ser dona.\u2028\u2028<\/br>\n<\/br>\nPer aix\u00f2, recolzo amb entusiasme la iniciativa de dues dones pioneres que ha fet possible que tingueu aquesta revista a les vostres mans. Una revista en femen\u00ed, feta per dones i per a les dones, tot desitjant que ens agradi i motivi per igual, dones i homes amants de l\u2019esport i dels valors feministes, que no s\u00f3n altra cosa que una lluita de totes les persones per un m\u00f3n m\u00e9s igualitari i just.<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Pioneres han estat (i s\u00f3n) moltes, an\u00f2nimes o conegudes: dones que han transgredit, que han trencat esquemes i sostres de vidre per fer avan\u00e7ar aquesta societat nostra i propiciar canvis. De vegades, \u00e9s un cam\u00ed que es tria per convicci\u00f3 o necessitat. D\u2019altres, simplement, \u00e9s l\u2019anhel, el desig, el que ens far\u00e0 trencar motlles.<\/br>\n<\/br>\n\u2028En l\u2019esport ens hi trobem sovint amb all\u00f2 de \u201cla primera dona que…\u201d. Quan a l\u2019any 1984 v\u00e0rem decidir fer la 1a Expedici\u00f3 Femenina a l\u2019HIM\u00c0LAIA, no ens movia (en principi) un esperit reivindicatiu o de g\u00e8nere. Simplement, vol\u00edem anar-hi i per trobar patrocinadors, proposar una \u201c1a femenina\u201d era una bona opci\u00f3. Per\u00f2 a mesura que avan\u00e7\u00e0vem en la preparaci\u00f3 de l\u2019expedici\u00f3 i, sobretot, un cop v\u00e0rem ser a l\u2019HIM\u00c0LAIA, es va fer lloc en nosaltres certa consci\u00e8ncia feminista: obrir cam\u00ed en un \u00e0mbit (l\u2019alpinisme) majorit\u00e0riament mascul\u00ed i demostrar que ten\u00edem capacitat, que era possible. Ens est\u00e0vem empoderant (aleshores no s\u2019utilitzava aquest concepte) i no ho sab\u00edem…<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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En relaci\u00f3 a \u201cl\u2019ambient masculinitzat\u201d, dir-vos, a tall d\u2019an\u00e8cdota, que vaig ser la primera dona en entrar a l\u2019ECAM (*) en la modalitat d\u2019alpinisme. En la meva promoci\u00f3 (de l\u2019any 1984) v\u00e0rem ser 50 inscrits: 49 homes i jo…\u2028\u2028<\/br>\n<\/br>\nAbans d\u2019arribar a l\u2019expedici\u00f3 del 84, hi ha un punt d\u2019inflexi\u00f3 que em marcar\u00e0 en relaci\u00f3 a l\u2019alpinisme: la primera vegada que vaig escalar una gran paret dels ALPS en cordada femenina. Als comen\u00e7aments dels 80, el c\u00e0mping \u201clliure\u201d de CHAMONIX era una mena de trobada\u00a0internacional d\u2019alpinistes i escaladors amb moltes ganes i pocs recursos. All\u00e0 vaig con\u00e8ixer la ROSA<\/font> que, com jo, havia anat als ALPS amb dos companys. D\u2019una vesprada compartint cerveses i projectes va sortir la idea d\u2019anar l\u2019endem\u00e0 totes dues soles a escalar a l\u2019AIGUILLE DE PEIGNE. Despr\u00e9s d\u2019una nit en vetlla pels nervis i l\u2019emoci\u00f3, sort\u00edem de matinada, disposades a realitzar el nostre repte. Va ser un dia de complicitats i \u00e0nims constants entre nosaltres, de superar dificultats a la paret per\u00f2, sobretot, de superar aquest \u201csostre de vidre\u201d sota el qual, dissortadament, de vegades ens instal\u00b7lem. Va ser una \u201cprimera cordada femenina\u201d que em va obrir un cam\u00ed per a les properes i on, entenent-nos amb poques paraules, v\u00e0rem viure el recolzament i l\u2019ajuda entre dones que fa uns anys van ser batejats com \u201csororitat\u201d. Ara t\u00e9 nom, per\u00f2 ha existit des que hi ha dones al m\u00f3n.<\/br>\n<\/br>\n(*) \u201cECAM\u201d: Escola Catalana d\u2019Alta Muntanya.<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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PITI CAPELLA<\/h4>\n

Primera instructora de l’ECAM en modalitat alpinisme,<\/br>\ni integrant de la primera expedici\u00f3 femenina, del nostre pa\u00eds, a l’Him\u00e0laia.<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Per si vols compartir aquesta columna<\/u><\/font><\/h5>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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ARTICLES PUBLICATS PER L'AUTORA<\/u><\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tESPERAN\u00c7A\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t04\/02\/2021\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t
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