{"id":9765,"date":"2020-05-11T18:30:00","date_gmt":"2020-05-11T18:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/nova.rutesentrerefugis.com\/?p=9765"},"modified":"2024-04-25T11:45:05","modified_gmt":"2024-04-25T11:45:05","slug":"sobre-la-bellesa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/rutesentrerefugis.com\/index.php\/2020\/05\/11\/sobre-la-bellesa\/","title":{"rendered":"SOBRE LA BELLESA"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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SOBRE LA BELLESA<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Columna escrita per DANI BRUGAROLAS i publicada a la revista V\u00c8RTEX<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u00abDe la bellesa no sempre te’n pots refiar<\/em>\u00ab, diu HERMANN BUHL al seu llibre PER SOBRE I PER SOTA DELS VUITMIL -t\u00edtol d’altra banda mal traduit per algun as del m\u00e0rketing com a DEL TIROL AL NANGA PARBAT. I afegeix: \u00abel seu car\u00e0cter \u00e9s, la majoria de les vegades, insondable i capritx\u00f3s. Tamb\u00e9 en el cas de la neu. \u00c9s un prodigi de bellesa i perfecci\u00f3, per\u00f2 has de con\u00e8ixer-la a fons per portar-t’hi b\u00e9 a la llarga. Tens els allaus. Els has de con\u00e8ixer, estudiar les seves lleis i si vols penetrar com alpinista en l’alta muntanya hivernal, et cal acumular experi\u00e8ncies<\/em>\u00bb – insisteix BUHL.<\/br>\n<\/br>\nI tot i l’exper\u00e8ncia, amb la neu i el gel la muntanya sempre \u00e9s perillosa. El 27 de juny del 57, en mig de la tormenta, BUHL escalava la cornisa somital del Chogolisa, al Karakorum. Una aresta afilad\u00edssima coronada per desploms de gel i de neu que pel seu costat vertical sobrepassaven la muntanya fins a una desena de metres sobre l’abisme. Pocs dies abans havia escalat el Broad Peak amb un aleshores jove KURT DIEMBERGER, sense ox\u00edgen i en estil alp\u00ed. Repetia les maneres que l’havien convertit en el millor alpinista del seu temps quatre anys abans, quan va coronar sol i tamb\u00e9 sense ox\u00edgen el Nanga Parbat.<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Aquella concepci\u00f3 de l’himalaisme era absolutament innovadora i trencava radicalment amb les expedicions pesades formades per equips d’escaladors organitzats verticalment, a l’estil de l’ex\u00e8rcit, amb comandaments i subordinats, amb centenars de portejadors i tones de material repartit per la muntanya. Per\u00f2 aquell dia de finals de juny la cornisa es va trencar sota el pes de BUHL, que es va precipitar per sempre v\u00edctima d’aquest m\u00f3n de neu i gel tan bell, tan perill\u00f3s i tan impossible de controlar.<\/br>\n<\/br>\nI ara mateix, despr\u00e9s d’una temporada de neu excepcionalment bona, qu\u00e8 en podem treure del que escribia l’austriac aquell 1954? Podem acumular experi\u00e8ncies any rere any, ascensi\u00f3 rere ascensi\u00f3; podem con\u00e8ixer els detalls que ens indiquen que el perill d’allaus \u00e9s inminent o que pr\u00e0cticament \u00e9s nul; podem equipar-nos amb l’ARVA, la pala, la sonda i fins i tot amb l’Airbag, o podem escalar en zones amb la temperatura i les condicions adequades. Per\u00f2 la neu i el gel sempre tenen un punt de sorpresa, d’imprevisibilitat, que els fa incontrolables. I mai haur\u00edem de sentir-nos exents d’aquest element de risc. No confonguem l’evoluci\u00f3 de les e\u00efnes de prevenci\u00f3 amb l’eliminaci\u00f3 d’un perill que sovint va lligat estretament a l’atzar. El risc hi \u00e9s.<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Sobre la bellesa, BUHL fa una perip\u00e8cia i al mateix cap\u00edtol, dels perills del gel passa al que ell anomena \u00abalegries<\/em>\u00ab. Convalescent, despr\u00e9s de trencar-se la pota esquiant en una cursa escriu \u00abque fins i tot fora de la muntanya la vida encara pot oferir-li a un certes alegries<\/em>\u00ab. Amb un to m\u00e9s desenfadat, diu: \u00aba mi ja se m’ha vist moltes vegades amb noies, anant a escalar o a baix, a la vall<\/em>\u00ab. I afegeix, pol\u00edticament incorrecte: \u00abSens dubte, constitueixen aquestes adorables criatures un perill per a m\u00e9s d’un muntanyer, i l’aparten dels seus ideals. Per\u00f2 jo em conec de sobra per saber fins a on pot arribar a influir-me l’element femen\u00ed<\/em>\u00ab.<\/br>\n<\/br>\nSobre la bellesa, Buhl hauria al\u00b7lucinat, sens dubte, si l’any 54 les dones haguessin escalat i esquiat com ho fan avui, d’igual a igual amb els homes tan en els reptes, com en els graus, com en els projectes.<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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DANI BRUGAROLAS<\/h4>\n

Nascut a Barcelona l’any 1973, periodista i escalador des de ben jove.<\/br>\nHa realitzat escalades de caire cl\u00e0ssic i big-walls al pa\u00eds a Europa i els Estats Units.<\/br>\n\u00abDe l’escalada, en valoro per sobre de tot dues coses:<\/br>\nel coneixement d’un mateix a trav\u00e9s de la plasmaci\u00f3 a les parets de les pr\u00f2pies mancances,<\/br>\ni l’estima pels companys i companyes de corda que, en certes circumst\u00e0ncies, supera l’estima familiar.\u00bb<\/h5>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Per si vols compartir aquesta columna<\/u><\/font><\/h5>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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ARTICLES PUBLICATS PER L'AUTOR<\/u><\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tLLIBERTAT\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t16\/11\/2021\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tUN TRESOR VERTICAL\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t25\/02\/2021\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tRESPECTE I CULTURA\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t23\/11\/2020\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tLA UTOPIA DE LA SEGURETAT\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t20\/06\/2020\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/article>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\tSOBRE LA BELLESA\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t<\/h3>\n\t\t\t\t
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